Ten Questions For Purchasing Ethically Sourced Jewelry
Would you feel good about a wedding ring if it was created by maltreated labor or with materials that trashed the environment? Does your expression of love just extend to your intimate ones; or beyond them to the greater human family? When you purchase jewelry, you have an opportunity to exert your economic power to change the world for the better.
With the recent tragedies of blood diamonds and the ongoing issues of dirty gold, it is easy to conclude that many in the jewelry industry lag far behind other business sectors in terms of environmental and corporate responsibility.
Indeed, independent jewelers, which represent the bulk of the jewelry sector to the public, are a very conservative group. Often they run legacy businesses, passed down over generations. They are in business to make money, not change the world. Most will continue to ignore the ethical sourcing issues until there is obvious money to be made. The movement for ethical sourcing must be consumer driven.
But there are jewelers out there that are passionately concerned about the environment and the fair treatment of the human family. Also, we are seeing start ups that source only from a small, highly ethical supply chain, which they make their main selling point. These companies are gaining market share by pointing out the troubling elements of the mainstream. All these first movers need market support.
The main issue can be summed up in one question: Can you trace all the components of this piece of jewelry from mine, through production, to market? Do not expect perfection. The supply chain for ethical sourcing is still spotty and the information you want may not be available even to the jeweler.
1. Mining: Ask the jeweler where they source their precious metals. It can take up to twenty tons of mining to produce one wedding ring. It is now possible for a jeweler to produce rings made from recycled gold, platinum and palladium. In fact, about 20% of all jewelry is now made with recycled precious metals. If a jeweler offers a jewelry line that uses recycled metals, that is a very good sign.
2. Mining: About 80% of all jewelry comes directly from newly mined sources. Gold mining is one of the most toxic elements in the jewelry sector’s supply chain. Typically, gold from the open market is sold to jewelry houses in China, which manufacture for chain stores. The more ethical jewelers will not be part of that supply chain. Ask if the jeweler is taking any public stance on issues of mining, such as signing the ‘No Dirty Gold’ pledge.
3. Eco Practices: Ask the jeweler about their in-house environmental practices at their own location. Jewelers can offset the carbon use of their employees and production from travel and commutes. They can recycle extensively, purchase green sourced energy if available, and use compact fluorescent lighting. They can choose to use less toxic fluxes and chemicals. If a jeweler is taking action on these issues, they deserve support.
4. Manufacturing: Some manufacturing still takes place in the US, but most jewelry is made in factories internationally. Determine the labor and environmental practices of the manufacturer, whether it is national or international. If you are looking at something that is made internationally, you probably will not get much information, but it is worth raising the issue anyway.
5. Diamonds: Have a serious decision about the sourcing of the diamond. Is it sourced from a large scale mining company that is transparent about its practices or is it purchased on the open market? Do not buy a diamond that you cannot source. The object is to trace the stone from mine to the polishing to market, as much as possible.
6. Diamonds: Do not be conned into believing that there is a perfect choice for the ethical diamond. The issue of whether to buy Canadian or African diamonds is a matter of personal values. If you are considering purchasing Canadian, learn about the impact of the mines on the Northwest Territories. If you are looking into a diamond from Africa, purchase one that supports downstream economy, such as those cut and mined in Namibia or Botswana.
7. Gemstones. A few gemstone sources are available that can be traced from mining to cutting to market. Some of these sources are working within the guidelines of fair trade. Support those jewelers that are supporting those companies.
8. Reputation: Research the reputation of the jeweler. A company that you work with online should have some kind of third party consumer advocacy group, such as the Better Business Bureau, that assures you that the company is reputable. Many companies also list testimonials from satisfied buyers, but such listings have more credibility when they have a last name, physical origin and at least a first initial. A brick and mortar store location that has been in business for at least ten years gives added credibility.
9. Soul: Jewelry has always had talismanic meaning. The best jewelry feels good because there’s a synergy between the materials and the maker. Some pieces of jewelry really do feel better than other pieces. Because jewelry is so personal and has so much emotional meaning, the experience from start to finish should feel good. Trust your feelings.
10. Guarantee: A reputable manufacturer will guarantee his product against workmanship defects for life.
By raising these issues, you will be helping to change an industry. If just five percent of the market asked jewelers about environmental sourcing, we will see a huge shift.
