Why Fair Trade?
We now have the opportunity to proactively address the shadow, or toxic side of the jewelry industry in a truthful way. The emotional trigger issues, such as mining, blood diamonds and a host of other concerns actually make our industry a very easy target. We can embrace this opportunity or we can continue to live in denial. If we choose the latter, we run the risk of unsympathetic people running full page ads in the New York Times, simplifying the complexities to push their own agendas—similar to what happened with the fur industry in the seventies and eighties.
Most important here are the moral questions that require truthful soul searching. Would you or your customer feel good about a wedding ring if it was created by maltreated labor or materials that trashed the environment? Is ignoring this question morally acceptable? Does our expression of love (and that is often what jewelry is about for us and the customer) just extend to our intimate ones; or beyond them to the greater human family? Or is your jewelry business, what you really pay attention to, just about love of the bottom line? If that is the case, what will that leave when you die? It takes real courage to even consider these issues, but there is a greater danger for those who ignore them.
As a nation, some of the most immanent perils are rooted in a culture that encourages the perspective that we can buy, fight or manipulate our way into safety. Yet there is another more effective approach. My company designs and manufactures contemporary versions of ancient European, tribal knot work motifs that symbolize the interconnectedness between individuals and communities. The matrix of every business, its source of wealth, comes from communities. Communities that are strong are based on circles of fair exchange, not pyramids where all the benefit goes to a select few at the top.
Instead of always trying to be on top, what if, within the context of sound economics, we directed some of our attention to weaving a tapestry of truly mutually beneficial relationships between us and those communities who we do business with, all the way down our supply chain?
I believe that there is more than enough wealth to go around. The Fair Trade initiative in our industry is an opportunity to make the world a better, safer place.
Challenges Ahead
La sfida iniziale è la creazione di una serie di criteri del commercio equo. Abbiamo bisogno di stabilire norme per il nostro posto di lavoro e per i nostri fornitori. Questo sta per essere difficile.
Ogni situazione in via di sviluppo è diverso. Prendere qualcosa che sembra come incontrovertibile come il lavoro minorile. La questione negozio sudore o il lavoro degli schiavi viene tagliato e secco. Ma è sbagliato per un 17 anni che lavora in una fabbrica di taglio sostenere una famiglia, anche se l'età lavorativa legale potrebbe essere 18? Come circa dieci anni, lavorare con il padre, imparare a fare le catene tessuti a mano con tecniche che sono state tramandate di generazione in generazione in un villaggio balinese? Vogliamo fermare questo? I was an educator for Native Americans in New Mexico before my wife and I started our company and many of my high school students were selling jewelry that they made to help their family—technically child labor. If we approach the situation in an arrogant manner, trying to quickly impose rules, we may end up doing harm.
Another issue is, how are we going to garner a buy in from people who would never consider Fair Trade? Proprio ora, much of what we have going on not just in our industry but in all industry, is micro-colonization—where some multi-national companies extract wealth from communities and transfer the money to other places, leaving communities basically impoverished. Sometimes even a few nickels a day may be the difference between hunger and ease, yet people are denied those nickels. I saw this first hand when I did medical work as a volunteer in the slums in Haiti for two years back in the eighties.
Sfortunatamente, many people still work on the paradigm that the only way to get ahead is to step on someone below you. The American consumer would happily pay those nickels, but class, social and business issues, here and in developing countries, prevent those nickels from turning into schools, clinics and wells.
These companies at the most extreme end are those who should be embraced in our dialog. They can be our greatest teachers and friends. Even small movements in the right direction can have a huge impact. If we can convince them, we can convince everyone. L'ultima cosa che ci serve con commercio equo e solidale è quello di creare più polarità e rapporti conflittuali. E 'molto più costruttivo per accogliere tutti e hanno davvero un grande tenda. Questo è l'approccio carota.
D'altronde, c'è il bastone. Per il movimento commercio equo e solidale di raccogliere abbastanza slancio nel nostro settore, abbiamo bisogno di trovare il modo per mostrare come è nel loro interesse economico, almeno da un punto di vista rapporto pubblico e da un punto di vista del business, a cambiare il loro approccio di business. Quando un'impresa è disconnesso dalla sue comunità, si rischia un contraccolpo. Questo è accaduto con aziende come Nike in passato e sta accadendo con Wal-Mart ora.
Una cosa che Martin Rapaport ha suggerito nel corso della riunione è che abbiamo bisogno di mettere più soldi nelle comunità in via di sviluppo. La mia esperienza nei paesi in via di sviluppo in cui ho vissuto mi hanno insegnato che non è così semplice. Se le persone in queste comunità povere non si sentono che il progetto è proprio, poi i soldi di sviluppo può solo andare in malora. Sviluppo che migliora davvero il lungo termine il benessere delle comunità povere richiede più di solo denaro, ci vuole un forte impegno di tutti e di vero cuore.
Un altro problema è che una volta Fiera catture, ci sarà bisogno di essere il monitoraggio e una sorta di processo di certificazione, che avrà i soldi. Si può essere certi che alcune persone saltare sul carro band senza realmente preoccuparsi dei problemi. Lo vediamo ora con alcune grandi aziende: si chiama, “Green washing”.
Creazione di Momentum
If we want to create momentum, we have to show the industry how it benefits them. It is important to get that data from surveys which measure how the image of Fair Trade can bring more business. There was a woman at the JCK meeting statistical evidence of a strong, national supported Fair Trade.
Presenting the issues to the industry is partially a matter of marketing. Some people will join in right away because it is a natural way for them to express what they believe in. For the rest, we need to show the many reasons why a movement toward Fair Trade can be in their best interest. If a trigger issue hits the press exposing a level of duplicity, a Fair Trade based company is poised to take advantage of it and gain market share from their competition.
We also have to market Fair Trade to the consumer. Given the choice, without a doubt most people would choose to support Fair Trade companies if the price differential is within reason.
As soon as possible, we need to set up a network of manufacturers and suppliers who are trying to implement Fair Trade policy. Perhaps we could start some kind of trade association. Otherwise, the retailers will have no place to turn to even if they believe in Fair Trade.
To facilitate this, we need to kick start this whole thing with a national conference as soon as possible. We need to bring everyone together with specific objectives to hammer out a basic framework. The conference has the potential to draw a huge amount of positive press for the sponsors. Sponsorship should be at various levels to allow smaller companies as well to contribute.
For now, it remains critical that prominent leaders in the industry, like Martin Rapaport, continue to stand behind this issue. After we have established a framework, we can continue the concept through dialog groups, blogs and other meetings at major trade shows.
Reaping The Benefits
By embracing Fair Trade, you get the satisfaction of working for the greater good. Using our economic power compassionately allows you to feel more connected to the miraculous, mysterious gifts that life offers.
It is also good business practice to be generous and to share the wealth. In my experience, everything cycles back around. There is a large and growing demographic who are concerned about Fair Trade. You can look at the testimonials on my website (www.celticjewelry.com) and see that many of my customers purchased from me in part because of the ethos of my company which is based on Fair Trade. These are the same people who buy organics—one of the biggest growth industries. They are wealthy and educated. They want their purchases to support their values. Fair Trade is a really good marketing opportunity to differentiate yourself from your competition.
Once these customers find you, they will keep coming back because they like dealing with a company that matches their core values. You can read the dozens of testimonials on our website, people I have never met, to see how much loyalty being fair and generous can build.
Over time, those who build their business on the concepts of Fair Trade are going to pick up market share from those who ignore the issue. I cannot imagine how the issue of Fair Trade is not going to become more prominent over time. It adds value to your company and your product.
At the same time, we have to be patient. Getting a complex manufacturing or retail business to be a hundred percent fair trade may never happen, but we can start to move in that direction. I have a long way to go in my company. Yet even baby steps, over time, add up.
The Fair Trade movement is about creating a circle with many relationships, all based on fairness and altruism. I believe Fair Trade has the potential to generate more wealth for ourselves and the communities that support us. Alcune popolazioni indigene negli Stati Uniti hanno parlato delle decisioni che considerano alla luce di quelli che verranno sette generazioni più avanti di noi. Siamo tutti collegati in un cerchio e più ci sosteniamo a vicenda, il meglio saremo tutti.
Marc Choyt è presidente di immagini riflettenti Inc, uno studio di designer di gioielli. Il lavoro può essere visto sul loro sito web, www.celticjewelry.com e www.reflectivejewelry.com He is currently writing a book on alternative business approaches entitled the Circle Manifesto. Per saperne di più delle sue idee, potete visitare il suo blog aziendale a www.circlemanifesto.com
