What Is Ethical Jewellery: An Interview With Marc Choyt, Publisher of Fairjewelry.org
Introduction:
In the UK at the moment, the notion of fair trade jewellery and ethical jewellery is being studied by academics. Below are my answers in response to questions from Alex Gribble who is undertaking a Final Year Project on “ethical jewellery” in a Business Studies Course at Birmingham University.
The whole concept of what exactly constitutes “ethical” jewellery is heavily subject to opinion. Back in October, 2007, at the Madison Dialogue conference at the World Bank in Washington, the attempt to define “ethical jewellery” got nowhere.
I will continue to argue that we need to focus on transparency rather than catch all terms such as “ethical jewellery”.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher
Alex: What do you understand by the term Ethical Jewellery?
Marc: What is ethical is a totally subjective concept.
For many people, a diamond sourced from a De Beers mine is totally ethical as what they are doing is considered “best practices” in the diamond sector. For others, particularly consumers who might classify themselves as “progressive” in political views, the historical context of that company makes their diamonds an unethical choice. The same issue is true in regard to the environmental impact of Canadian diamonds. Some would say purchasing Canadian is ethical while others say that it is better to source from Africa.
What is safe to say, I believe, is the root of any “ethics” in the jewellery sector is transparency from mine, though the cutting process, to market. Then the customer will be able to determine what is ethical for him or her self..
Perfection should not be the enemy of the good. We live in a world with more grays than blacks and whites.
Alex: In your opinion, what affect has it had on the current market?
Marc: Within the jewellery sector, the importance of sourcing responsibly has gained traction, particularly in certain segments of the supply chain which have been impacted by Blood Diamonds and Dirty Gold. Consumers are more aware. Market demand is there, but it is still a niche which those with a solid e-commerce platform, have been able to take advantage of.
In the US, the mainstream independent jewellers, with a few exceptions, have been slow to recognize the strong market potential in “ethical” sourcing. Perhaps this is because, if they segment a part of their product offering it as “ethical,” a customer may ask, what about this range over here?
Also, the independent jeweller is as a demographic group very slow to pick up on some trends unless it is an obviously hot product category. At present, ethical sourcing doesn’t fall into that class. Yet some companies have used it as a means to differentiate themselves from the competition. Clearly, this is an opportunity, but it requires effort and thinking outside of the box.
Overall, I have seen tremendous movement over the past two years, and it is inevitable that this trend is only going to get stronger. In the UK, which is obviously a much smaller country and market, the ethical sourcing initiative is much stronger.
Alex: What future implications could it have on the market?
Marc: Up until quite recently, the marketing of jewellery has focused on the emotional/romantic, while ignoring sourcing issues. This view is really quite out of date with our current times, where any responsible person realizes that we are all part of one global community that is interdependent. Many other industries have taken the opposite approach.
A number of things have to happen for the market to shift, particularly on the supply chain. In our sector, this movement is still in its infancy. For example, right now the market is mainly upscale. Responsible sourcing has to hit the middle and low end market. Though my company is an exception to that with its introduction of internationally produced recycled products, there are still huge gaps in the supply chain.
For example, low end gemstones are a huge product category that has yet to be addressed. For the right person, however, it is a great business opportunity.
I’d say that we are currently analogous to what fair trade coffee was in the seventies, though I think that the movement forward is going to be much quicker. Some day, it will be socially unacceptable, particularly those in the EU and North American market, for anyone to purchase jewellery that is not ethically sourced.
Alex: In your own opinion, do you think there will every truly be an ethical jewellery supply chain?
Marc: Again, it depends upon one’s view of what ethical is. We rely upon extraction of minerals. We are also in a market system which is based on commoditization. To some degree, we need to reverse this process and begin to consider how our purchase supports a certain supply chain process.
It is all a question of gradients.
Will their ever be ethical oil? How about ethical steel? Yet our society depends upon a wide range of resources that we consume without much attention to their true costs.
Some may argue that jewellery is different because it is not a necessity. However, human beings have been adorning themselves for at least eighty thousand years. Jewellery is a fundamental repository of culture and art. For me, art and beauty is essential.
Now, traditionally, jewellery has held talismanic value and the sourcing and soul of the maker was an essential ingredient to the actual piece. The ethical sourcing movement is attempting, in part, to restore the notion that how something is created is essential to its over all value.
Within that context, we need to support best practices which even now are being developed. In the end, we will find ways of creating jewellery that is more in alignment with its emotional and symbolic value.
Alex: What current issues have arisen from ethical jewellery and could affect its future?
Marc: Once large players with huge resources begin to get involved, they will shape the market according to their own watered down standards. We see this taking place with Wal-Mart’s “Love Earth” jewellery line, where loving the earth is associated with massive strip mining. It is really quite Orwellian.
But in the most general sense, the big issue is that the supply chains are going to be examined. It is very, very difficult for a manufacturer to change their supply chain. Supply chain practices have been very secret. When one really gets down to it, the sector as a whole is quite vulnerable which is why some of its leaders have been tackling these issues.
Alex: How could the general public become more aware of Ethical Jewellery and current problems in the manufacturing and mining of precious metals?
Marc: At present, there are not a lot of resources. Public education is a critical part of this entire process. The trade press is beginning to pay attention, and we do see some stories in mainstream newspapers as well.
I really see education as the critical link because this whole movement needs to be market driven. The work on my blog, www.fairjewelry.org, is my personal way of addressing the educational issues.
Alex: Are consumers prepared to pay more for Ethical Jewellery?
Marc: Yes, within a reasonable amount. I’ve heard 15% as the number.
What is reasonable depends upon the niche market. Bridal has a lot of potential because it is a highly emotional once in a lifetime (at least that’s the intent) purpose.
In some cases, particularly with recycled precious metal products, items can be made without little if any additional costs at all.
Alex: In your own opinion, is there currently demand and a growing market for ethical jewellery?
Marc: Without question, the demand is there and growing. I know this from my own company.
In the US, for example, about 15 to 20% of the people purchase organically grown foods and buy their clothing from companies such as Patagonia. These “cultural creatives” shop their values. Many would never walk into a mainstream jewellery store, but they would consider purchasing from a company that has a progressive, green stance.
Alex: Lastly, could you give me you own definition of ethical jewellery?
Marc: We do need a general term to describe the process and perhaps “ethical” is the best option. But the term “ethical jewellery’ is useless.
It is for the consumer to determine what ethical jewellery is. Right now, in the jewellery sector, we can talk about mine to market custody. A customer needs to know where the piece was mined, the labour and environmental issues, the processing and cutting, and the manufacturing of the piece.
Like the notion of “conflict free,” the term “ethical” has little meaning unless it is backed up by transparency.
