The Mysterious Dance Between TransFair-USA, Tiffany, F.L.O. And A.R.M..
INTRODUCTION: Michael Kowalski, CEO of Tiffany, gives us a glimpse into Tiffany’s perspective on the efforts of artisanal mining and the Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) during his interview with Robert Bates, Senior Diamond Editor of the JCK Magazine.
After some discussion about Tiffany’s worldwide sales over the holidays, the questions turn to issues in the ethical jewelry movement; specifically, mining. Mr. Kowalski states, “…We are far from a consensus on what constitutes a socially responsible gold mine.”
The Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) has become a powerful advocate of small artisan miners working under fair trade principals. Third party fair trade gold is expected to be available to the European market some time in 2008. In fact, the Fair Labeling Organization (FLO) based in Germany has signed a memo of understanding with ARM. ARM will be starting selling their gold through a bullion company some time in 2008 to supply the EU jewelry sector with third party certified fair trade precious metal.
http://www.ethicalbullion.com/
Greg Valerio, of Cred Jewelers, UK, is on the board of ARM and has been a point person in the development of ethical jewelry, from mine to market. He wrote the following in response to Mr. Kowalski on Mr. Bate’s blog.
“There certainly is a consensus of what constitutes Fair Trade gold and responsible small scale mining. He may just be looking in the wrong place.”
“A feasibility study on a fair trade diamond is a ‘no brainer’. What we need is a defined standard that everyone can have access to and that exclusively benefits small scale miners and addresses the soft under belly of the industry that is the disconnect between the poverty and exploitation that takes place in the name of luxury jewellery. We need a new narrative that rewrites luxury as leaving a legacy of freedom and peace.”
Tiffany Foundation, a 501C3, recently granted TransfairUSA $100,000 to do a feasibility study on fair trade diamonds in Sierra Leon. Of course, Tiffany and Tiffany foundation are separate entities, though Mr. Kowalski sits on Tiffany Foundation’s board.
TransfairUSA is the American based branch of the Fair Labeling Organization (FLO) based in Germany. The actual relationship between FLO International and their American cousin is an interesting topic. FLO seems to be leaning toward supporting small scale mining through ARM. TransfairUSA, with their alliance with Tiffany (Foundation) seems to suggest a bias toward a large scale approach.
I emailed TransfairUSA about some of these issues and got no response… In the context of large scale versus small scale mining and fair trade, we can only speculate on the mysterious synchronicities between these remarkable events.
For whom will the bell of fair trade toll………?
