Risposta alla chiamata di Responsible Jewellery Council Per un commento pubblico sulla catena di custodia Carta
by Marc Choyt and Greg Valerio
We welcome the opportunity to comment on RJC’s latest documents. Riconosciamo le sfide e vediamo la logica nelle fasi iniziali adottate per garantire la catena di custodia.
Fiera Gioielli Azione (FJA) is a new network being established by Marc Choyt of Immagini riflettenti (Stati Uniti d'America) e Greg Valerio (Regno Unito), (fondatore di Gioielli CRED and a founding board member of ARM) whose aim is to draw together the breadth of responsible jewellers who are committed to transparency and traceability in the jewellery supply chain to ensure the highest possible standards that reflect these crucial values.
Below is FJA’s comments on the RJC chain of custody discussion paper.
RJC offered a variety of supply chain custody models to comment on. In our experience if RJC is going to fulfill its stated objectives of ensuring consumer confidence in the gold and diamond jewellery supply chain, then the only two credible supply chain models that are open for it to pursue would be ‘track & trace’ and ‘bulk commodity’. Although these systems are more expensive to implement in the early stages, we have found that with the required will, clear expertise and the current profit returns that leading RJC members post, it is within the RJC’s grasp and they are achievable.
In our experience as leading ethical and fair trade jewellers the only system that can give total assurance to customers of jewellery products is a system that ensures full 100% traceability from mine to retail.
Mass Balance and Book and Claim will not, based upon our experience in the fine jewellery sector, deliver on the stated mission objectives of the RJC. In fact we believe that it will leave the RJC open to the accusation of green washing as these approaches separate and disconnect the source from the consumer. As all jewellers know, gold and diamonds are not just commodities that are sold, they are aspirations and emotions that are marketed and it is in these marketed aspirations that the true current value of our product lies. We understand the moral disconnect that currently exists in the jewellery sector between source and finished product which is creating the difficulties we are now struggling with, but a mass balance/book and claim system will not eradicate bad practice, it will only serve to distract from it, leaving our industry rightfully open to the accusation of misleading the consumer.
We also offer these broader comments on RJC’s overall position;
• RJC needs to adopt the United Nations Declaration of Indigenous Rights as a core principle. A commitment to this Declaration would be a strong statement of advocacy toward producer communities.
• RJC should broaden its governance to include civil society groups and organisations that can represent the majority of the mining sector; namely the small-scale miners. Currently the governance body of the RJC is only representative of the minority in our industry and supply chain.
• Standards and leadership need to involve a wide variety of cross sector and multi-sector stakeholders working together. At present, only members within the jewellery sector are involved in the initiative. Respected stakeholders in civil society are needed to monitor members. It is the only way to credibly assure that business interests will not override environmental concerns and culture in producer communities.
• Within the multi-stakeholder context, a clear and open grievance policy that is transparent and open to the public must be implemented. This is the best way to assure producer communities have channels to air concerns.
• For membership to mean anything, retailers need to be transparent about the sourcing of their product, revealing at least what is mine to market custody and what is not.
Here is a link to the RJC’s Chain of Custody Paper. https://fairjewelry.org/pdfs/RJC_Chain_of_custody_paper_19_April_2010.pdf
