The Train Has Left The Station: Notes from the Ethical Jewelry Summit
I felt privileged indeed, to meet with these leaders in the jewelry industry, all of whom are so dedicated to improving the lives, through economic and community empowerment, of artisan miners throughout the world.
On October 26th and 27th, 2007, the Madison Dialogue, organized by Earthworks, CASM, ARM, Jewelers of America, DDI, Rapaport, PAC, FLO, De Beers, and Ethical Metalsmiths convened the “Ethical Jewelry Summit” at the World Bank in Washington DC. The conference focused on two questions:
Hosted on location by CASM, sponsors for this historic event included AngloGold Ashanti, BHP Billiton, Ben Bridge Jeweler, Cartier, De Beers Group, Hoover and Strong, Newmont, Rapaport Group, Rio Tinto, Tiffany & Co, CASM, Toby Pomeroy.
First:
How can we connect artisan small scale miners (ASM), directly to the market that will pay them fair wages, allowing them to support their families, communities and their efforts toward environmental stability?
Second:
How do we develop cross sector, third party certified standards for this new initiative to solidly build a market?
This was the first multi-sector meeting of its kind, and it brought together a broad spectrum of about 100 leaders from across the industry concerned. Represented at the conference was World Bank, Ethical Metalmiths, JA, Cartier, ARM, Tiffany, DeBeers, CJRP, GIA, Rapaport, as well as major suppliers, such as The Bell Group and Hoover and Strong.
Some of the retailers and manufacturers included: Leber Jewelers, Brilliant Earth, Toby Pomeroy, Lori Bonn, Cred Jewelers, Vukani-Ubuntu, and Columbia Gem House.
Fair Labeling Organization, FLO international, represented by Transfair USA, was also in attendance.
We gathered to listen to each other, and representatives of small scale miners from South America and Africa. We discussed how we might use business as an economic mode to support and empower the lives of those in the developing world.
From Left to Right: Ezi Rapaport, Martin Rapaport, (Rapaport Group); Caren Holzman (Transfair USA); Steve D’Esposito (Executive Director, Earthworks), Kimberly Dunn (Earthworks), Jennifer Horning (Ethical Metalsmiths); Demos Takoulas, (CEO of Vukani Ubuntu), Amanda Stark, (Fair Trade liaison, Rapaport Group.)
According to ARM’s website, “ILO data from 2004″ indicate that ASM produces between 20-25% of all non-fuel minerals. In Africa it provides close to 2 billion worth in gold and gems, it produces more that 200 million worth of gold in more than 6 countries and it is responsible for 15% of all diamonds, worth some $1.2 billion dollars.”
Laying The Ground Work
The market demand is there. What we need right now is to create a structure across the industry to make it happen. Right now, the void in the market is creating a wide variety of claims around such terms as “eco” and “fair trade jewelry” which are ambiguous to the consumer. We focused our efforts primarily on two sectors: artisan mining efforts in diamonds and the precious metal sector.
The conference focused on the needs of small scale mining in both sectors, as distinguished from large scale mining. This lead into a discussion around what constituted ethical jewelry and standards in the jewelry sector.
Two members of the dialog, one from the World Bank and one from Peru, stand before a draft of the community declaration which was formulated by Bill Gallagher of Lori Bonn Designs
FLO International has already signed a letter of intent with ARM, so third party certified gold is on the way. Currently Transfair USA is studying the possibility of certification of diamonds as well. However, the representative of TransfairUSA, Caren Holzman, stated that this study may or may not lead to actual commitment to take part in this sector.
FLO’s commitment to jewelry as a fair trade certified product is questionable. Right now, we see only initial stages dealing with raw material. Actual third party certification of manufacturing is a long way off from even being considered.
The attendees at the conference spent some time considering what the words “ethical” and “fair trade” might actually mean in context to jewelry production, from mine to showroom. Though there were no actual agreements as to the exact “word-smithing” of these concepts (which are not easily decided by 100 people) there was broad agreement over the principals around human rights, environmental concerns and fair labor practices.
There was also broad agreement that transparency must be the foundation of any standards that are to be developed. Working groups in manufacturing, metals, and diamonds were established at the end of the conference whose focus on tackling the issues around principals, standards and possible third party certification. The possibility of a future Madison Dialogue meeting was also raised. The Rapaport Group will also hold a “fair trade” meeting in the JCK Show in Las Vegas in June.
Shamsa Diwani, Secretary General of the Tanzania Women Miner’s Association.
As I sit here, three days after the Ethical Jewelry Summit, looking out at the mountains above my home in Santa Fe, NM, I realize it is impossible in this short discussion of the conference to convey the energy and excitement all of us participants felt. Some of the most important discussions unquestionably took place in the space between sessions, when individuals networked. A strong feeling of camaraderie and mission energized the participants who broadly agreed on what needs to be done.
The product is there.
The demand is there.
The will to make this movement thrive is backed by major supporters.
All that remains now are the logistics. There was more than enough expertise in the room to accomplish them and to see these changes through.
